Another season of FAT wrapped, this time with a celebration of diverse cultures
By Sena Law
Arguably Toronto’s most anticipated fashion event — Fashion Art Toronto (FAT) needs no introduction. Returning for its bi-annual season over the weekend of May 2 to 5, FAT joins fashion lovers and enthusiasts within the industrial warehouse that is Black Creek Assembly.
Spanning four days, 50 designers showcased their meticulously put-together spring and summer (S/S) collections on the runway. The last day of the season concluded with collections from 13 Canadian designers and a full house audience — gathered by a united love for fashion and the desire to celebrate local and global talents.
The visual offerings of the runway on Sunday at FAT encapsulated the elixir of the Canadian fashion landscape — creative, boundless and a true celebration of cultural heritage coming from a diverse list of designers.
Meglio & Meglio
Meglio & Meglio showcase their colourful loungewear collection at FAT S/S 24 (Kinza Zafar/CanCulture)
Mississauga-based brand Meglio & Meglio is elevating loungewear to a new level. Traditional silhouettes of robes and pyjamas are transformed to take on floral and animal prints and bold patterns that are sure to catch one’s attention. Completed with complementary hair pieces, each item from this collection screams luxury.
Designer Denz by Esha
Designer Denz by Esha’s South Asian garments-inspired collection (Kinza Zafar/CanCulture)
The collection by Designer Denz by Esha is a celebration of South Asian cultures through bridal and party wear inspired by traditional garments. The size-inclusive collection features flowy silhouettes with no shortage of diamonds and pearls. Glamorous and elegant, Designer Denz by Esha’s takes on traditional South Asian garments with an intricate, contemporary twist.
Tran Thien Khanh Design
Tran Thien Khanh’s collection at FAT S/S 24 inspired by the designer’s Vietnamese heritage (Kinza Zafar/CanCulture)
Tran Thien Khanh Design opens with an impressive vocal performance of a Vietnamese song, followed by one of my personal favourite collections of garments of the night. Ao Dai inspired, each piece from this collection pays homage to traditional Vietnamese wear. With a meticulous incorporation of more contemporary fashion elements such as subversive designs and pleats, certain pieces bear influence from Japanese designer Issey Miyake’s iconic Pleats Please collection. Each aspect of the collection shall not be overlooked, from each intentional cut out in the dresses to the perfectly paired accessories, Tran Thien Khanh was a force to be reckoned with at this season of FAT.
Zedes
Zedes showcases a collection inspired by nature at FAT S/S 24 (Kinza Zafar/CanCulture)
Zedes brings to the Sunday runway a refreshing breath of fresh air. A nature-inspired collection for women, pieces take on ruffles, pleats and bright colours, resembling shapes of flowers and waterfalls and other silhouettes found in mother nature. This unconventional collection is a unique spin on couture gowns and dresses, taking on an unapologetic sense of boldness.
Wave Fibre Mill / Milo & Dexter
Wave Fibre Mill / Milo & Dexter showcases a collection of garments made from local fibre (Kinza Zafar/CanCulture)
The slogan “First you raise a sheep” is shown on the backdrop of Wave Fibre Mill’s collection. Based in Seguin, Ont., Wave Fibre Mill offers the unique service of “custom milling and fibre processing, services textiles, yarn, garments and accessories from local fibre,” according to their website. On Sunday, the mill brought their sustainability efforts to the fashion runway with a collection of toxin-plastic-free garments. The minimalist earth-toned designs are simple yet productive, conveying the urgently important environmental message that the fashion industry tends to ignore.
DonTalato
Fresh contemporary looks from DonTalato’s collection at FAT S/S 24 (Kinza Zafar/CanCulture)
DonTalato, the self-proclaimed “Heritage Brand,” showcases a beautiful collection of African-inspired designs. Designed in Burkina Faso, and handmade in Burkina Faso, this collection features monochromatic sets and the meticulous designs and craftsmanship is clearly present. I particularly enjoyed “Chilo,” a blue two-piece made from 100% Burkinabé cotton and an open-back design decorated with sustainably sourced beads from West Africa.
Elantur
Elantur’s grayscale collection is reminiscent of some of Miu Miu’s iconic silhouettes (Kinza Zafar/CanCulture)
Elantur brings to the runway an all-black collection, the monochromatic garments take on more contemporary silhouettes with an avant-garde twist. The collection also incorporates more trendy elements such as rosettes, cowl necks and open front designs.
FDS — Filomena Dos Santos
FDS’ “Pollen Rain” collection blends streetwear, clubwear and couture (Kinza Zafar/CanCulture)
FDS’s collection named “Pollen Rain” brings a sense of dystopia to the runway. The collection features more contemporary designs like leather jackets and the incorporation of materials like mesh and satin. It also introduces elements from tech-wear, transporting the audience to a rainy day inside a cyberpunk video game.
World of Folklore
World of Folklore showcases a tropical collection at FAT S/S 24 (Kinza Zafar/CanCulture)
World of Folklore brings to FAT a massive collection of beachwear and summer-summoning garments. The Indo-Canadian brand transforms the runway into a tropical coastline with flowy beach wear and sundresses. The size-inclusive collection takes on floral designs, mixed textures and fabrics, as well as wood accents in the form of purses and clutches.
Brandon Keir
Brandon Keir’s “STARFUCKER” collection took over the runway with its punk influence (Kinza Zafar/CanCulture)
Brandon Keir returns to FAT runway with another brilliantly controversial showcase, this time — “STARFUCKER.” The black and white collection features unconventional designs, heavy with the use of metallics and silver accents. Keir’s homage to the punk rock influence in fashion is conveyed in the language of spiked shoulder pads and face paints and bold uncensored texts. This collection can be best described as an homage to the rock-star lifestyle, in the form of modified streetwear.
DESATITA by Mohit
DESATITA by Mohit’s bridal-inspired immersive collection is a feast for the eyes (Kinza Zafar/CanCulture)
DESATITA by Mohit is my personal favourite of the night. The bridal-inspired collection is presented in a performance-like showcase. The show opened with a traditional all-white bridal gown, followed by looks with added red accents, then a drastic change in atmosphere as all-black looks dawned the runway, in a juxtaposition to the foremost innocent wedding gown. The symbolic nature of the collection can be interpreted in many ways, the designer explains it as “the journey of a human soul right from its birth to adulthood.”
The series of meticulously designed and hand-crafted garments was not only visually beautiful but evoked feelings and more philosophical thoughts about life, marriage and the loss of innocence. The immersive showcase captured not only my heart but many of those in the audience, evidenced by a standing applause to close off the showcase.
Storrveldi
Storrveldi transported FAT attendees to a different time and space, with bright colours and varying textiles featuring a medieval twist (Kinza Zafar/CanCulture)
Closing Sunday and the S/S season at Fashion Art Toronto was Storrveldi. ‘Shadows of Forgotten Ancestors’ features a collection inspired by the “amalgamation of Slavic folklore, new age mysticism, horror, feminism.” The craftsmanship showcased in Storrvedi was nothing short of impressive, extremely intricate designs that each told a story, a perfect way to end off a wonderful season at FAT.
The 2024 Spring/Summer season speaks to Fashion Art Toronto’s continuous efforts to give local and global designers their much-deserved flowers, with an emphasis on cultural representation and highlighting designers of colour.
It is always a pleasure to be able to immerse myself in a fashion environment that is inclusive and ever-welcoming, the CanCulture team is looking forward to what the future seasons at FAT will bring forth.