Fashion week in Toronto comes to a fabulous end featuring local designers and TMU fashion students
By Sena Law
This November weekend flew by as Toronto fashion enthusiasts gathered for the most anticipated bi-annual event of the year. The 2023 Fall/Winter season of Fashion Art Toronto took place at Black Creek Assembly from Nov. 16 – 19, featuring over 40 Canadian designers and their designs over the four days.
On Sunday the 19th, FAT wrapped up with 11 local designers showcasing their collection, and notably showcased an additional 18 Toronto Metropolitan University students and alumni designers in collaboration with the Fashion program at TMU’s the Creative School — marking this collaboration a first of its kind in FAT history.
Each complex design and piece presented on the runways of the Sunday show reflects the unique artistry and identity of the designers. Whether it’s a tribute to classics, a hoorah to cultural heritage or just plain extravagance, this without doubt was another phenomenal Sunday to close out this season of Fashion Art Toronto.
Ms Meri Mak
The Guelph-based boutique woke up attendees at the Sunday show with a pop of colour. Each model was seen in bright pink or orange cocktail dresses while rocking a slicked-back braid and sunglasses. Sequins and tulle are common themes amongst the dresses, perhaps a call out to the recent revival of Barbie. This collection was demanding attention with the articulated “baddies” aesthetic complimented on the runway by an energetic Pop Smoke track.
KDJM Studio
Kareem Mitchell of KDJM Studio brought to FAT an intriguing collection that elevates day-to-day silhouettes. Featuring mind-bending psychedelic-esque prints and silhouettes that are balanced between flowy and structured, this collection is the embodiment of wearable art.
Kollen Boutique
Kollen Boutique’s winter collection featured an array of ethically sourced coats and outerwear crafted from genuine leather, fur, and wool. An exclamation of elegance and class includes longer trench coat styles and more modern cropped silhouettes, with the consistent motif of fur hoods and cuffs.
RT
RT by Bangladeshi born eco-friendly artist, Refaya Turshin brought urgent issues of sustainability onto the runway at FAT. Slogans like “Love your planet, it chose you” were projected on the screen before a collection of “toxin free, organically dyed out of trash, eco-couture wear” was dawned. Models showcased the minimalistic and earth tones designs while they walked the runway in their barefoot and face paint, redirecting the emphasis on sustainability practices in the fashion industry
TMU X FAT
This position of the show is a collaboration between TMU and FAT, comprising collections from 13 Bachelor of Design undergraduate students, three Master of Arts Fashion candidates and two alumni. This project aims to showcase Queer and Black, Indigenous and People of Colour (BIPOC) student work on the runway. Here are some of the highlights.
Curtis Matysek
A masterful manipulation of fabric, texture and hardware. Matysek brings back elements from his graduate collection “A Horrific Exploration of the Queer Sublime.” Gracing the runway with his classic yet innovative designs that feature different variations of corsetry and draping.
Joyin Rey
Perhaps my favourite collection of the Sunday showcase at FAT, Joyin Rey brings to the runway a fabulous collection of intricate silhouettes. The use of backstitching and intentional asymmetry made the collection visually engaging. Reminiscent of Prada and Miu Miu, Joyin Rey’s navy and brown designs channel themes of the academia aesthetic with an ultra-playful twist.
Delfina Russo
A collection of hyper-feminine designs, Delfina Russo showcased a reimagination of playing dress-up with dolls. Colourful and bold, and with an abundance of pearls, bows and girly elements, Russo’s collection is a figment of nostalgic girlhood.
Camilla Leonelli Calzado
An exploration into her Cuban heritage, Calzado brings us an interpretation of the Cuban Carnival. Whimsical but not lacking in class, this collection features contrasting colours and more use of corsetry.
SWZ Studio
A tribute to the traditional Chinese dress, Maribelle Zhang and Emma Liu presented a grand installation on the runway that features an over-the-top extravagant headpiece.
Sebastian Blagdon
Sebastian Blagdon brings to the runway a collection of headpieces which can only be described as art installations. The effort put into these pieces to not only ensure its structural integrity but retain its intricate form must not be undermined.
Solouk
An almost entirely monochromatic collection by Solouk graced the runway. Those familiar with the brand will recognize its signature aesthetic of androgynous chic. Unconventional layering of black on black, pleated and textured fabric and mesh are a common motif throughout. Influence from brands like Rick Owens and Margiela are hard to ignore. Simple yet complex, Solouk’s collection was nothing less than captivating.
Brandon Keir
Brandon Keir returns to the FAT runway, this time embracing the theme of “afterlife”. This edgy collection features the prominent colours of black and red. A clever incorporation of hardware like safety pins and grommets, encapsulated edge and streetwear. If there is couture in hell, this would be it.
Purple Heart Supply
Purple Heart Supply showcases a collection of versatile streetwear essentials, featuring its signature colour, purple.
Kerotix
Kerotix makes its debut at FAT this year with an out-of-this-world collection that is anything but conventional. Futuristic designs feature corsetry, lots of paddings and imaginative silhouettes. Something you can take from Kerotix’s showcase is that conventional proportions are overrated. And I can say I have been convinced.
Kendrick Tran
Kendrick Tran’s showcase was something more of a theatrical performance. He opened with a video monologue that questions all of our existence, and then the collection kicked off with heavenly all-white pieces. After an interactive segment engaging the audience by asking them to turn on their flash, the showcase then transformed into an all-black collection of designs coming down the runway. Reminiscent of Dion Lee, Tran’s designs feature classic silhouettes with bold cut outs. Elegantly modern, this was a beautiful and dramatic conclusion to FAT 2023