As a collaboration between Toronto Metropolitan University, Toronto Fashion Incubator and FAT, the student-led showcase kicked off the Friday show. The entire ordeal was organized by students in a fashion events and planning course at TMU, who decided on the themes of creation, growth and renewal.

The runway collection was the combined effort of four TMU fashion alumni designers, whom each put together a number of looks that were cohesive to the themes.

The stand outs here were the collections from Audrey Chen and Serena Li. Chen, who was featured in another collaboration between FAT and TMU fashion at F/W 23 returns with a brilliant take on modular garment designs. Her emphasis for fluidity and adaptability is reflected in the pieces that puzzle together by snaps and buttons — done meticulously by Chen and materialized in a neat collection of subversive wear.

Not to be confused with the previously mentioned Triple Threat, the TMU Fashion show features looks from 19 student and alumni designers and marks the second collaboration between TMU Fashion and FAT, following the first installment at F/W 23.

Each designer presented two to three looks. Ethan Cordner kicked off the show with three looks that set the impressive tone for the rest of the collections.

The incredibly talented 19 year-old is also the mastermind behind Distorted Wardrobe. What sets Cordner apart is his brilliantly established brand identity — Cordner’s work stands out not only in its distinctive punk-influenced aesthetic, but in its craftsmanship — often distressed and generously embellished.

Sagradesa, founded by TMU fashion alum Maxime Chercover, is rooted in sustainability and an intent to slow down fashion. The entire collection is made from “reclaimed textiles” which refers to pre-loved, or non-virgin textiles, as explained on the brand’s website. The misconception that sustainable garment-production puts aesthetics, or the capacity for complex designs, in jeopardy is put to rest by Chercover’s sublime display of both objectives.

The intricacy in Sagradesa’s collection is not done justice by the mere few minutes these pieces don the runway. Elegance and strength are themes consistent throughout the pieces, from the meticulous handling of lace, to the manipulation of pleats and masterful corsetry — the collection is a reflection of the versatility not only in womenswear, but in femininity. Chercover’s collection simultaneously celebrates earth, her hispanic heritage and the divine feminine. 

Costa and Sophia Dumitras are the dynamic sibling duo behind Mr. Krater. Krater’s collection is distinctive in the balance between its edginess and playfulness.

The collection features many leather and fur garments with plenty of accessorizing, often androgynous and rowdy in nature.

A punk influence is quite prevalent but many looks are contemporized by the inclusion of more formal pieces, making for a captivating contrast. Mr. Krater is undefined and experimental, much like the spunky pair, boundless and youthful.     

Freshly debuted at Rchive Fashion Club this summer, Amatus Gray is designer Michael Angelo’s namesake brand after his mother.

The industrialist inspiration in Angelo’s collection is prevalent, taking after avant-grade predecessors like Rick Owens, Yohji Yamamoto and Maison Margiela. The monochromatic collection accentuates silver hardware, its incredible construction and craftsmanship are hard to dismiss.

The non-conformist attitude behind Amatus Gray emanates from its garments. Much anticipation should be had for Angelo and his brand’s future endeavours.